Among the most gorgeous of Indian saris
is the Paithani, woven in the western state
of Maharashtra. Exemplifying the merger
of the aesthetic with the symbolic, the
saris today are a prized possession.
From The Pages Of History
The art of fine weaving, of hand and loom
embroidery and the complex processes of
bleaching and dyeing were perfected by the
people of India long before textile industry
was modernized. References in ancient history
indicate that an amazing variety of costumes
made of silk and cotton fabrics were used
in India. The Rig Veda mentions a golden
woven fabric and the Greek records talk
of gorgeous paithani fabrics from the great
ancient trading and industrial center, Pratishan
or Paithan in Maharashtra.
During the medieval period, the Marathas
extended their patronage to textile activities.
Some centers became renowned for their textiles
and the fabric frequently derived its name
from the place of origin. For example, paithani
came from Paithan, and shahagadi from Shagad.
The Peshwas in the 18th century had a special
love for paithani textiles and it is believed
that Madhavrao Peshwa even asked for the
supply of asavali dupattas in red, green,
saffron, and pomegranate and pink colors.
Even today Maharashtra is the home of this
celebrated textile.
The Nizam of Hyderabad was also attracted
to the paithanis and made several trips
to the small town of Paithan. His daughter-in-law,
Niloufer, is believed to have introduced
new motifs to the border and pallav (outer
end of the sari) designs.
Motifs Give Name To Sari
The Traditional Paithani Used To Be A Plain
Sari With a heavy zari border and ornamental
pallav. However, today paithanis with motifs
are in vogue: stars, circles, peacocks,
flowers and paisleys. The paithani borders
and pallavs are heavily adorned with these
motifs and the sari is given the name after
the design on it. Tota-maina (parrot), bangdi-mor
(peacock with round design), asavali (flower
and vine), narli (coconut), are all descriptive
of paithanis. In the olden days, the zari
used in making paithanis was drawn from
pure gold. But today silver is substituted
for gold thus making the paithanis more
affordable to many people.
A Cultural Fabric
Although the paithani sari is costly, it
has become a popular item in the marriage
ceremonies of the rich and the not so rich.
Besides Paithan, the saris are woven in
Yeola, known for the mango motif pallavs
and in Pune, Nasik, and Malegaon in Maharashtra.
The paithani sari has played a significant
role in weaving together the cultural fabric
of Maharashtra.
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