Applique is the art practiced in
and Rajasthan. It is a decorative work in
which one piece of cloth is sewn or fixed
onto another, or the activity of decorating
a cloth using glass pieces, metals, wood
or metal wires
Appliqué Work in Orissa
Orissa's appliqué work is one of
the most fascinating handicrafts of India.
The Pipli village in Puri district of Orissa
is the main center of appliqué work.
Rows of shops in Pipli flaunt appliquéd
handbags, bed sheets, wall hangings, purses,
cushion covers, letter cases, pillow covers,
canopies and garden umbrellas.
Patronized by kings and nobility of Orissa,
appliqué work at one time had reached
the artistic heights of excellence. The
kings of Puri engaged craftsmen in the service
of Lord Jagannath and set up village Pipli
for them to live in.
Though the art became popular after the
construction of the Lord Jagannath temple
in Puri, its origins go far beyond.
In the old days, Pipli craftsmen used to
make canopies, banners, umbrellas and trashas
(fans) for festivals held in Puri's famous
temple. But as the craft's popularity spread
far and wide through the pilgrims of Puri,
the craftsmen started making other decorative
and utility items also.
How It Is Done
This beautiful craft is usually practiced
on dazzling red, purple, black, yellow,
green and white fabric. The craftsman first
prepares the base material in the shape
of square, rectangle, and circle or oval
which forms the background for the pieces
of art.
Appliqué motifs in contrasting colors
are then cut in the shape of animals, birds,
flowers, leaves, celestial bodies and geometric
shapes. These motifs are then stitched onto
the base cloth in aesthetic arrangements.
Raised motifs are prepared by giving several
folds. The actual grace of appliqué
craft lies in its intricate stitches namely,
bakhia, guntha, turpa, chikan and other
very delicate and esoteric embroidery techniques.
Nowadays, small mirrors and bright metal
pieces are used to enhance its beauty.
After attaching the appliqué patches
to the base cloth, the borders are then
stitched.
The piece of art is now ready for sale.
Almost all the family members get involved
in this craft. Skilled persons of the family
go for beautiful intricate designs while
the less experienced take up the simple
works like stitching the borders and making
the base clothes.
Appliqué Work In Other States
The traditional appliqué from
is called . The meaning of the
word phulkari is flowering as the surface
of the cloth begins to resemble flowering
petals. Phulkari is generally made on shawls
using the darn stitch to attach pieces of
cloth onto the surface of the shawl. Apart
from flowers, stylized figures of animals
and plants are also made. Silk thread is
generally used in creating phulkari, though
occasionally cotton thread is also put in
use.
In Andhra Pradesh, the blouses and headscarves
worn by the Banjara tribal women are not
only embroidered but also decorated with
appliqué and mirror work.
is also known for its unique
appliqué or gota, which is created
by sewing edges of zari ribbon onto fabric,
to create elaborate patterns. It is commonly
used for making costumes for women. Khandela
in Shekhawati is best known for producing
these items. Appliqué work these days can be
seen on utilitarian items such as bags,
lampshades, tablemats etc. Appliqué
embroidery can also be seen on blouses,
petticoats, gowns and other garments.
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