Buying pearls, however, is not that simple.
To find out whether the gems are real, they
should be rubbed gently against the edge
of one's teeth. A grainy, rough sensation
indicates the pearls are genuine while fakes
would feel smooth and glassy. Pearls should
also be checked for their color and luster
in daylight or several pearls should be
compared under the same available light.
The sheen of the nacreous layers is the
essence of the gem. The thicker the layers,
the deeper and mellower will be the iridescence
and the air of dignity.
Colored pearls are rare. They come in yellow,
pink, silver, and blue tints. The so-called
'Black Pearls' are only dark gray in reality.
They are too scarce and most expensive,
being cultivated only in Okinawa, Japan,
within the rare Black Butterfly oysters.
Often inferior pearls are colored chemically
to fetch better prices but the hues are
not permanent. Other than its radiance,
a pearl is priced according to its shape
and size. Large, round, and shiny pearls
are the costliest. For a necklace, it would
be economical and attractive to select round,
radiant pearls of gradually increasing size
keeping the largest one in the center of
the string. The half-sphere 'button' pearls
and the 'tear drops' are suitable for pendants,
earnings, brooches, and buttons. The tapered
'rice' pearls and the tiny 'flower' pearls
of uneven shape look very appealing when
strung in several strands or cluster.
Bidriware
Of the many high profile crafts of the
Deccan, bidriware is perhaps one of the
most popular. The very name suggests their
origin at Bidar-a district of the Bahmani
kingdom founded in the 14th century. Sultans
of the Bahmani dynasty ruled over a large
part of Central and South India for nearly
400 years. They were great patrons of art
and were instrumental in synthesizing Mughal
and Iranian culture. The technique of bidri
came to India from Iran (Persia) in the
14th century. Captivated with the exquisite
beauty of bidriware, Sultan Ahmad Shah Wali
(1422-1436) brought from Iran the master
artisan, Abdullah-bin-Kaiser along with
several other craftsmen. They were entrusted
with the delicate job of furnishing and
decorating the royal palaces and havelis.
Abdulah's superb mastery over his art highly
impressed the Sultan and he established
a training centre for bidriware under the
supervision of this great artist. Thereafter
several other talented craftsmen further
developed the art, which soon permeated
from the royal enclosures to other aristocratic
homes.
The Nizam of Hyderabad also took keen interest
in the craft. Under his patronage the art
reached is zenith and the city of Hyderabad
and its surroundings areas became an important
center for bidriware. When the States under
the Indian Union were reorganized in 1956,
the district of Bidar was split with its
major portion going to Karnataka. However,
the art and craft of bidri making continued
to prosper in and around Hyderabad.
The basic material of bidriware is an alloy
of zinc and copper in the proportion 16:1.
Upon this alloy, designs in pure silver
are inlaid. Each bidri piece is cast separately.
First a mould is formed from ordinary soil
made malleable with castor oil and resin.
The molten metal alloy is then poured into
it. The newly cast piece is now smoothened
with files and scrapers. The artist then
rubs the piece with a strong solution of
copper sulphate to obtain a temporary black
coating on which to etch the design. The
designs are drawn freehand with a sharp
metal stylus. The article is then firmly
fixed on a waxed stone or held in a vice
while the craftsman, using small chisels,
engraves the design. Into these chiseled
groves he carefully hammers pure silver
in the form of a fine wire or flattened
chips. The article is then rigorously filed,
buffed and smoothened again obliterating
the temporary black coating so that the
silver inlay work can hardly be distinguished
in the gleaming metallic surface which now
looks all silvery white. The bidriware is
now ready for the final treatment, which
makes the alloy surface permanently black.
The silver inlay work stands out in bright
contrast against the dark background. This
is achieved in an unusual way-a particular
type of soil is mixed with ammonium chloride
and water. The paste thus produced is rubbed
onto the heated bidri surface. The paste
darkens the body of the article but has
no effect on the silver inlay. As the paste
is rinsed off, the design springs out dramatically.
The shiny silver is resplendent against
the black surface. Finally oil is rubbed
on the finished product to deepen the matt
coating.
With proper care and maintenance, bidri
articles can be kept bright and beautiful
indefinitely. Water does not harm bidriware
but soap or acid must not be used for cleaning.
Use silver polish to shine the inlay work
and then rub vegetable oil to sparkle the
entire surface.
Brassware of Pembarti
Scholars tell us of the age when iron was
not known and copper and its alloys were
used for making metal tools and objects
of daily use. A small part of that age is
still with us but mostly in objects of art.
Statues, carvings, and castings still continue
to be made in the attractive copper alloys
like bronze and brass. The methods used
are still traditional ones although the
raw material today comes from modern mines
and furnaces.
Indian brass is renowned the world over
and chances are the brass potted planter
in the foyer of a Manhattan hotel or Tokyo
corporate office has comes from Pembarti,
a small village of Andhra Pradesh known
for its brass work.
Most of the residents in Pembarti are involved
in brass work and there are several workshops
in the village dealing with brass. From
behind the line of tall palm trees there
comes the clink and tap-tap of mallets beating
brass. Sheets of brass are transformed into
marvelous objects of art-all by hand.
Apart from sheet work, the craftsmen of
Pembarti are proficient in another skill-that
of lost wax casting. This ancient art is
found all over the world. India has an unbroken
tradition since very early times as can
be witnessed from the exquisite figurines
found in excavations of the Indus Valley.
Most of the figurines depicting characters
from Hindu mythology are made from lost
wax process. There is not much demand for
these nowadays, but discerning buyers always
prefer cast figurines to machine made ones.
Over the last few years some of the wares
of craftsmen of Pembarti have become extremely
popular. The pert peacock with its proud
head and feathers held high is a great favorite.
Its outspread feathers are depicted in flat
brass pierced in myriad shapes. Then there
are elegant flower vases in fascinating
shapes. Every curve is painstakingly handcrafted,
not turned on machines. |