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The large disc plug of Gujarati
women and the various kinds of heavy earrings
worn by the women of Tamil Nadu are examples
of these. Women of some regions have ears
pierced with holes of a diameter that almost
amounts to mutilation and then wear enormous
pendant earrings made of gold.
Fingers
Rings for the hands have been found at
practically all levels of Indus Valley Civilization.
Mohenjodaro excavations have brought forth
copper rings with several coils but no gold
and very few silver rings have been discovered.
Rings, over the ages, have been worn on
all the fingers including the thumb. They
fulfilled the triple function - decorative,
talismanic and signatory. The innumerable
forms of metal rings can broadly be divided
into those with and without bezel (the part
of the ring meant to hold a decorative decree,
stone or seal). While rings set with personal
seals are less common today, the rings set
with stones are ubiquitous.
The particular stone may be chosen for
reasons other than mere appearance. According
to Hindu astrology, each of the nine planets
in the Universe is represented by a specific
stone. By wearing the stone associated with
one's planetary sign, it is believed that
the effect can be enhanced or mitigated
according to the nature of the planet. A
very popular arrangement of stones called
Navaratna (nine gems) is used in rings and
other ornaments.
In a special category is the larger thumb-ring
or arsi with a circular mirror. Other thumb-rings,
unequivocally courtly pieces in shape and
material were worn from the late 16th to
the mid 18th century during the reign of
Shah Jahan. They were considered the finest
examples of Mughal Jeweled gold. Yet another
type, now obsolete, is the Archer's ring
of jade or gold, at times set with gems
and embellished with enamel. Its Central
Asian origin accounts for its popularity
among high ranking men during the Mughal
period. To the Romans, the ring was the
most important item of jewelry. They were
the first to use it as a sign of betrothal.
Today the rings have only fashion value.
The traditional significance seems to have
diminished.
For the nose, single stone studs rate high,
or the traditional design with a few diamonds.
Lops are on the decrease, unless they are
family heirlooms used for weddings and other
ceremonies. For the feet, due to more women
wearing closed shoes, the toe ring in most
cases is not worn except by the more orthodox
and conventional women.
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