Rajasthan is popular India and abroad because
of its gold jewelry. However the technique
of combining gold with precious and semi-precious
stones or Kundan work and the art of colorful
enamel work or Meenakari have mainly been
responsible for the immense popularity of
jewelry made in Rajasthan.
Kundan work is essentially Indian and it
was brought to Rajasthan from Delhi during
the Mughal period. Craftsmen from all over
the country came to Jaipur, Bikaner, Udaipur
and Jodhpur, under the patronage of royal
houses. Numerous royal houses from Rajasthan,
encouraged and patronized craftsmen to create
exquisite kundan work on silver and gold.
The entire technique of Kundankari lies
in the skillful setting of gems and stones
in gold, which is rarely solid. The core
of the ornament is made out of lac a natural
resin. The pieces, which make up the finished
ornament are first shaped by specialised
craftsmen and left in separate hollow halves.
Holes are cut for the gems, any engraving
is carried out, and the pieces are enameled.
Later lac is inserted into the hollow parts
and is then visible from the front through
the holes left for the gems. Highly refined
gold or kundan, is used to cover the lac
and gems are then pushed into the kundan.
To increase the strength of the joints and
to give it a smooth finish more kundan is
applied.
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